Colombo to Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka (Ceylon).

Payagala North.

After almost 2 years on Ultimate Dream it was time for a land break so we waved good bye to Ultimate Dream in Langkawi for one month where she was moored, thanks to Phil and Faye on SV Jigsaw who owned the mooring and we set off for a new adventure on land. Leaving the thunderstorms behind in Langkawi we headed for the airport to fly to KL. After spending a very rough, sleepless night at KL's LCCT airport we eventually boarded our plane for Colombo and arrived after a short flight. 
Colombo was busy with traffic and after several stops in Rajagiriya asking for details of the location of our homestay we eventually arrived weary and overdue for sleep.

Rajagiriya, Colombo.

We found many cheap eating houses in Rajagiriya and indulged in savoury pastry delights. Not an area to easily navigate by foot due to heavy traffic, narrow roads and crazy drivers and no footpaths we were happy to move on from Rajagiriya to Payagala our next destination down the coast. With great excitement we decided to take the train and left Colombo Fort train station and headed to Payagala North for our hotel on the beach front set amongst a rural local village in natural treed surrounds. It was a welcome change from the busy, crowded, polluted and noisy city of Colombo. Peace and serenity was plentiful with mimimal local activity around us. The hotel was on the railway line much to our surprise, luckily few trains passed by as the line which normally continued onto Galle was being repaired properly as a result of a hasty repair after the tsunami. The train finished at Payagala our stop. 

The local Christian Church impressive for such a small community.

We had a chance meeting with Lassater, a local fisherman's son who took it upon himself to show us his village. A Christian fishing village, who were expecting Jesus to visit each family in their homes that very day. Jesus was expected to visit his home at 6pm after visiting his grandmother next door, whom we also visited. After receiving gifts of shells and a coconut to drink he continued our tour through the village passing his local church. 
Our next destination was Hikkaduwa a very popular tourist destination and surfing spot. We arrived by private bus because of the train repairs and found a gorgeous cottage style beach front guesthouse and loved the ocean view from our terrace. Heavy rain and excessively loud thunder had our attention as storms surrounded us. Shops and restuarants were plentiful but we found our favourite and stuck to it, Roti 1.

Ranjith and his wife at their cafe

Making friends with Ranjith another local fisherman and his wife we ate plenty of curry in their cafe as he spoke of Sri Lanka, its customs and the longstanding internal war with the Tamil Tigers.

Ranjith and myself standing beside the local fishing boat.

Local fisherman pulling in a giant net.

Our guesthouse owner was very friendly and offered to take me to Galle to purchase a saree. Upon returning home her Aunty and herself showed me how to dress it. A complicated process to remember I wouldn't want to be in any hurry to get my saree on.  But in Sri Lanka most of the ladies preferred to wear blouses and skirts i saw very few sarees being worn. It was only once we got to the tea plantation areas where the Hindus (originally from India) started appearing.

My saree instructors.

So much food everywhere and good quality produce.

In Hikkaduwa at the Sunday market we met Sharmani where she promptly invited us back to her home for afternoon tea. We had so much fun at the afternoon tea party with her children Sanka and Wasana that she then invited us back for lunch the next day to meet her older children Amila, her son her spoke more English and the older daughter Nadeshani.

Buying garlic with Sharmani.

More samosas to sample.

Wasana, Sanka and Sharmani in front of their home.

We conversed as best we could and shared our enthusiasm to get to know each other. We made the most of the opportunity to practice and learn as much Sinhalese as we could and the children were keen to practice their English.

Proudly showing us their coconut tree.

A sensational meal she'd prepared for us.

Amila her eldest son who was learning to be a guide suggested that we go to the Tsunami museum and the local Moonstone mine. So off we set off later that afternoon in his tuk, tuk to see the local sights.

A creative museum filled with children's drawings, photography and  written accounts of the Tsunami in 2004.

We were amazed at the devastation the area received, this was the part of Sri Lanka most affected which we had heard little about back in Australia. The museum had been lovingly pieced together by the local people.

The mine and workers.

Moonstone miner showing us washed stones.

Amila, Sanka and Richard.

In Hikkaduwa we have very fond memories of our time spent with Shamani, it was as if we had known her and her family for years. Her generosity, hospitality and friendship will be treasured in our hearts.