The Andaman Islands, India

Havelock No.7

True to our style we spontaneously decided to join our friends in journeying to the Andaman Islands, India with a departure late set for end of Jan 2011. In company with Simon and Amanda on SV Thyme and Trevor on his ketch SV Gadfly we headed NW of Thailand 400nm to spend one month cruising the remote, picturesque islands of India. 

Neill Island

A unique trip for us we had decided to take crew for the very first time. Nicki and Sue were from Germany and joined us for our resupplying mission at the supermarket before we set off. Enjoying food as much as we do they happily cooked a variety of German and Italian meals, and as much as Richard and I enjoy each other’s cooking it was a pleasant change from our old favourites. We now have new dishes to add to our cooking repertoire, thanks guys. J

They took a keen interest in learning all things about Ultimate Dream and our acquired knowledge in sailing. Richard was in his element telling stories and sharing our adventures, as he loves to do. I realized how much we’d learnt over the course of our brief yet significantly condensed cruising time.

We left the Surin Islands, Thailand late January 2011 and arrived in Port Blair 2^nd February early in the morning. A relatively easy trip, apart from one squall that hit us late in the night and got all hands on deck. With wind and rain swirling around us in the darkness of the night we were relieved the conditions dissipated soon after.

Upon reaching Port Blair our check in port: Customs, Immigration and Coastguard paid us a visit to clear us in (oh my god the paperwork required).  We were then free to see the Harbourmaster and Forestry Officer on land. We skipped Forestry deciding we’d had enough of officials not to mention we’d already used half a forest in paperwork.

Port Blair was a busy town of goings on and was a feast for our senses.  The hustle and bustle included cows on the main street sitting beside busy passing traffic, a cow taking a nap in the shade of the bus station, taxis hurtling along at great speed and an activity of people either side of the roads. Street vendors sold fruits, hot nuts and delicious hand squeezed lime juices.  

We discovered tasty pastry treats as we meandered our way down town. The Indian food was cheap, tasty and there were plenty of restaurants to choose from of good standard. Our favourite was the pure vegetarian restaurant, Annapurna. We had how many meals there? Oh yeah quite a few!

Taking a keen interest in Indian womens' fashion I particularly enjoying observing the passers by in their stunning saris'.

A local beauty.

After a brief stay in Port Blair resupplying with local fruit & veg and other necessities for the month of cruising, we headed off to discover the magic of the Andaman Islands.

Sister Island

South Cinque

We enjoyed the remote islands of Rutland, Cinque and Sister Island. A beach barbeque was a great time for all the crew to get together.

Beach bbq Rutland Island.

Rain bucketing down upon the roadside tea stall Chiriyatapu.

Samosas and chai coming up.

To the north we loved Havelock No. 7, a dream anchorage for yachts, all sand and no reef all the way to the white sandy beach. We soaked up the sunsets, samosas and rested in the shade of the awesome rainforests along the waters edge on the islands of Havelock and Neill.

Havelock No.7

Havelock No.7

Richy on the samosas and dhal.

Neill Island another highlight location, a small island easy to explore by pushbike of minimal population. Green and lined with rainforest on the beachfront it was an appealing location to backpackers and yachties. Its simple accommodation, tasty, cheap eating and rural surrounds was a place to explore.

Neill Island

Simple accomodation.

Off exploring.

Ingliss probably our favourite uninhabited island provided great fun on our wave ski’s as we rode a small surf break every sunset and paddled around the entire island. It gave us an exciting opportunity to explore the caves and landscape of the island. We even managed a naked walk along the beach until we heard a helicopter passing overhead and realized we didn’t have permission to be walking on the island. So we hid ourselves among the trees until it was safe to reemerge and find our clothes, at the far end of the beach.

Sue after her paddling.

Sue and Nicki playing Carrom Board.

.Long island was a quiet historical village with a paved walking path running throughout the island, a quiet place that was once a thriving community. We discovered breakfast for the 3 of us for about $1.20 couldn’t get much cheaper than that.

Breaky the Indian way

We dined in company with our other sailing companions at a restaurant with a huge tree trunk as the centerpiece. The rest of the tree towering way above our heads, it was stunning. After our orders were taken and a fire was light, our meals arrived 2 hours later. Lucky for us we had plenty of conversation with 11 of us dining together.

In the Homphrey Straits towering rainforest lined the either side of the river and was inhabited by tribal people. We’d been given strict instructions by Indian officials to go not near these people for our own safety. At the time we had forgotten all about the tribal people and their displays of aggressive, hostility we’d heard so much about. Come to think of it we didn’t give it any thought that we might even meet with them. We were simply enjoying our surroundings. We did see local fisherman as we took a dinghy tour up the mangroves but they didn’t pay us any attention.

Homphrey locals.

Cruising down the Homphrey early morning.

After being in Thailand and Malaysia and not having fished for anything other than plastic bags, it was time to throw the fishing lines in we’d heard the fishing was fantastic. We were destined to catch something. With our limited experience we had great success, catching some great eating fish and one giant Trevally which proved to weigh more than Richard was comfortable lifting. Unfortunately Giant Trevally isn't quite the same as eating Tuna.

Sue, Nicky and Richard pulling in the big one.

Giant Trevally

Ross Island our last stop before heading back to Port Blair was a feast for the eyes. A small island accessed by ferry just off the main town of Port Blair, it had been an old English base. The abandoned buildings while some have been preserved others have been left to nature to claim. Giant fig tree roots stood proudly over the remaining structures works of art now. Today it’s a museum piece a natural art gallery, a popular local attraction. Wild deer can be found roaming the island feeding off coconuts fed to them.

With a short trip back to Port Blair for the necessary check out and paperwork extravaganza we prepared for our departure. Saying our goodbyes to our other sailing companions, who were leaving a few days after our departure date, and fare welling the Andaman Islands we made for Phuket. Enjoying another easy passage home we reflected on our experiences, soaked up the pastel sunsets and was greeted by killer whales up close as they swam beside us. What more could we have asked for !